| As
you quietly succumb to the wonderful sense of spiritual calm here, it's hard to
conceive that one field away the land skids to a halt and spectacular cliffs drop
800 feet. The Exmoor plateau meets the sea abruptly at the village of Martinhoe
- 'hoe' is Saxon for high ground - creating a breathtaking view as you approach. This
lovely understated hotel stands next to an 11th century church in three acres
of mature garden. Loved and nurtured by clergy past, the garden now occupies the
affection of Christopher and Enid: birdsong, waterfalls, scented azaleas and the
bizarre gunnera only hint at its allure. This is a gentle retreat, dedicated to
food and marvelous hospitality. Enid
has been cooking since she was a child and makes her own marmalade, bread and
cakes, biscuits and ice-cream. Meat is fresh, local and organic; even the water,
filtered and purified, is from a local borehole. Traditional bedrooms have Laura
Ashley wallpaper, sparkling bathrooms and the odd Waring and Gillow antique; and
one has a balcony. Downstairs, curl up in comfy sofas by an open fire, or drift
off in the conservatory; grapes from the 200-year-old vine above your head fill
fruit bowls in season. Alastair
Sawday's Special Places to Stay |